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I just did, and if it's there, it's buried.Don't you have the little sheet in the box? These are NOT that hard.Take a sharp, fine hacksaw, and cut the end nice and square, by holding 6-8' out straight, make the cut straight.' Eyeball' the connector along side your cable, and strip some outer jacket (insulation) off, so you have the cable end, about an inch longer than the connector, if it were on the cable.Use a good, sharp, HEAVY razor knife.If you have the silicone lube capsule, put about 1/2 a drop of lube on the o rings. Put the appropriate ring down in the last 'trench' of the cable before the insulation, put the other on the shoulder of the clamp nutWork the clamp nut down the cable, so the o ring that's on the cable is inside the inner recess of the clamp nut. When done, the clamp nut should have the o ring hidden in the bottom, with the insulation right at the end or just inside the clamp nut.Now, take your razor knife and carefully cut the shield, even with the top of the clamp nut. This is the hard part, work carefully, cut down CAREFULLY to the center conductor, and work the cut end off. You'll probably have to slice it along the length of the cable, and 'peel' off the cut end.

You should now have the clamp nut on, with a little cable (center) sticking out the end. Carefully clean off the insulation from the center conductor. Take your knife and cut down along the center conductor, to do this, then scrape cleanNOTE BE CAREFUL: Center conductor is COPPER PLATED aluminum, so do NOT scrape down through the copper.Use your razor, and carefully clean off the insulation to bare copper.Now, carefully, using a small screwdriver or other tool, sort of 'start' the shield outwards to 'flare' into the clamp nut. Now screw the thing together, and lightly tighten, to 'make the flare. You should have some center conductor sticking out through the connector.

Remove the top of the connector, and eyeball the center conductor, along with the center pin, so that you can see where to cut. You are going to want the BOTTOM of the center pin just barely above the end of the clamp nut/shield junction. Mark the center conductor, maybe with your razor knife.Here's a little tricky.

You CANNOT cut this center conductor with 'dykes' you'll just mess it up.You need to DEEPLY score it, I cut as much into it 'around' the center, with my razor, as I can, and I have a small VERY sharp set of 'dykes' that I can use to score it more deeply.When scored, take a pair of pliers and twist the center conductor waste end off. The aluminum center will fracture and break. The instructions don't suggest specific tools, and only give trimming dimensions for the cable end.I read some of what's here and wouldn't do it the way suggested.For the outer conductor, I use an ordinary tubing cutter (little cutting wheel with hand-screwed tensioner, as used for cutting tubing), which takes all of about five seconds and makes the cut perfectly smooth and perpindicular with the end of the cable. The center conductor absolutely can be cut with a wire cutter, just not with diagonal cutters ('dikes" because they don't slice the conductor, they chomp on it with parallel blades - this is exactly the wrong mechanism for cutting wire. Real wire/cable cutters have sharp overlapping, semi-circular jaws which cut the Andrew hardline center conductor like a hot knife through butter and do zero damage to the conductor.All it takes is the right tools.

I've put on so many of these connectors I can do it in my sleep, but if you have the correct tools (none of which are expensive or unusual), it takes less than 60 seconds, start to finish, including torquing down the connector using a pair of open end wrenches.WB2WIK/6. Click to expand.Here's an old trick I have used in the past and it bypasses those expensive connectors. Take one of those 'Barrel' connectors, or PL259 splice connectors, and first burn out about 1 1/4' of the dialectric with a torch. This leaves the center wire naked (of course). Use a hacksaw and split the ends of the outer metal cover enough to allow the barrel connector to slide inside. Carefully avoid sawing the center wire. Slide the barrel into the hardlinejust about half way.

Check this with a PL259 to make there is still enough clearance so the PL connector can bescrewed on and off in the normal way. Take a small hose clamp and clamp the barrel in place. You now have a way to connect/disconnect your antenna (s) and accessories to your rig. This also makes nice wall pass-thru's where you can come directly into the house with the hardline, or make a quick way to disconnect yourantennas both from the inside and out. With a piece of hardline long enough to enter the wall, you can install barrel connectors on both ends of this for great quick connects!73K4KWH.

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